How to test your pool water properly
For clean water, it is enough to test pH and free chlorine properly two or three times a week and the rest once a month. The most common mistake is not the instrument but the sample.
What to test and how often
| Parameter | Typical target | Frequency in season |
|---|---|---|
| pH | 7.2–7.6 | 2–3 times a week, daily in a heatwave |
| Free chlorine | 1–3 mg/l | Together with pH |
| Total chlorine | Only slightly above free chlorine | Once a week |
| Total alkalinity | Usually 80–120 mg/l | Start of season and every month |
| Stabilizer | Usually 30–50 mg/l | Every month, if you use stabilized chlorine |
| Calcium hardness | Depends on the local water | Start of season and after many top-ups |
| Salt | As specified by the unit's manufacturer | Every month, only with salt electrolysis |
Combined chlorine is not measured directly: it is total minus free. When it rises, you get the familiar "pool smell" (see why the pool smells of chlorine).
The three testing methods
Test strips
Dip the strip, wait the number of seconds stated on the pack and compare the colours with the chart. Strips are quick and give several parameters at once, but their accuracy is only indicative. Moisture spoils them easily: close the lid straight away, do not touch the pads with wet fingers and watch the expiry date.
DPD drops or tablets
The classic test kit with tubes: phenol red for pH and DPD for chlorine, usually DPD 1 for free and DPD 3 for total. It is more reliable than strips, provided you read the colour in daylight with a white background behind the tube, not under a lamp or in bright sun.
Photometer
A digital instrument that "reads" the colour of the reagent and gives a number, with no subjective judgement. It suits people who want accuracy or who manage a pool at a rental property. It needs a clean cuvette without fingerprints, zeroing with a sample without reagent, and reagents that are in date. Electronic pH pens, like the sensors of automatic pH and chlorine control, also need regular calibration.
How to take a proper sample
- Test after the pump has been running for a good while and the water is mixed, not straight after adding chemicals.
- Rinse the tube with pool water.
- Push it under upside down, opening facing downwards, to about elbow depth, and turn it over there to fill it.
- Take the sample away from the return inlets, the skimmer and the floating tablet dispenser.
- Test immediately, because chlorine in the sample is lost quickly in the sun.
- Note the date, time and readings in a notebook or on your phone.
A testing log shows trends that a single reading hides. If, for example, the pH rises steadily every week despite corrections, it is worth checking the total alkalinity.
Mistakes that skew the result
- Very high chlorine: after a shock chlorination, DPD can fade or not change colour at all and show falsely low chlorine. The same high chlorine can also give a falsely high pH.
- Spoiled reagents: out of date, or left in the sun and in the heat of the plant room.
- Wrong sample volume: water above or below the line on the tube changes the shade.
- Reading too early or too late: some reagents keep changing colour; read at the time stated in the instructions.
- A new correction without a new test: after every correction, test again once the water has completed a full circulation cycle.
At the start of the season, or when something does not add up, take a sample in a clean, closed bottle to a shop with a photometer for a full check that includes hardness, stabilizer and, if the water comes from a borehole, metals.
Questions
Why do the strips show different chlorine from the drop kit?
Strips give an indicative range and are affected by moisture and age, while DPD in a tube is more accurate. If they disagree, trust the reagent test and check the strips' expiry date.
After a shock chlorination the sample does not change colour. Is there no chlorine?
Most likely there is much more than the kit can measure, because DPD bleaches out at high concentrations. Dilute the sample half and half with distilled water and double the result, or test again after a few hours.
See also




Pool pH
Pool pH: why we keep it at 7.2–7.6, how to raise or lower it with pH+ and pH−, what happens to chlorine and…




Pool chlorine
Pool chlorine as tablets, granules or liquid: which form suits you, what free and combined chlorine are, and…




Automatic pH and chlorine
Automatic pH and chlorine control for your pool: dosing pumps, sensors, calibration and who it is worth it…